With the first week of September behind us, the 2024 edition of Amsterdam Fashion Week is also behind us. Not only were there many presentations, many shows focused on upcycling, but there was also plenty open to the public on the program. A number of events from the entire program stuck with the FashionUnited editors. We list them for you.
Martan’s opening show is accompanied by stormy weather
Amsterdam fashion label Martan opens AFW with a show called ‘Tempest Tides’, in which it presents a skilful SS25 ready-to-wear collection. This collection consists of jackets, tops, trousers and accessories, all made from recycled materials. A striking feature of the new collection is the use of spinnakers, which are incorporated in both the decor and the accessories.
Martan hereby demonstrates his ability to innovate without producing new material. The show highlights the upcycling expertise of designers Douwe Boer, Diek Pothoven and Eugénie Mulier and conveys a powerful message: “Why produce new material when we can dress six more generations with what already exists? Sustainability is no longer a choice, but a necessity. This is the core of our business, and I believe that every fashion brand should take this direction,” designer De Boer said in a conversation with FashionUnited after the show.
Studio Hagel brings AFW audience to its designer heart
Studio Hagel, which will be celebrating its tenth anniversary next year, is opening its doors to the public for the first time. For this special moment, the studio has a make-over received. There are various blocks, sealed with blue foil, that break up the white space. Creations are displayed on them, such as Nike sneakers that are provided with an old bathing cap, or shoes that are given a new look by the outline of an old vacuum cleaner hose and don’t forget the popular Adidas Sambas, that are wrapped in an old cotton handkerchief.
Studio Hagel has been using its studio as a playground for almost ten years, creating shoe designs that have never been seen before. That is also the goal: It wants to apply techniques to shoes that have never been used before. As a result, the shoes are often not wearable. But through collaborations with brands such as Off-White, Valentino and Asics, their work is getting attention. Studio Hagel’s largest market is America, followed by South Korea and the Netherlands. The experimental shoe design studio is participating in AFW this year to generate more awareness in the Netherlands.
Tess van Zalinge: Men’s fashion, double looks and collaboration with Nortvi
The couture collection by Tess van Zalinge was presented in the industrial Studio 3000 in Amsterdam Noord. The Dutch designer joined forces with Dutch travel brand Nortvi for this special collection. All garments are made from recycled materials from Nortvi suitcases and were transformed into special, two-piece creations.
The audience enters the show backstage, where they get a glimpse into the heart of Van Zalinge’s creative world. The models, including Jazz Ben Khalifa, Elois van Oranje and Stijn de Vries, are lined up in front of their own clothes rack and are being prepared for the show. Each look gets full attention during the show, as the models parade through the white space in zigzagging lines.
Max Zara Sterck moves in the costume workshop of the National Opera & Ballet
Designer Max Zara Sterck’s love for dance was only made clearer during her show on Thursday night. The location – the costume studio of the National Opera & Ballet – felt like the perfect place that was both mysterious and practical.
The show was divided into various parts. For example, the show started with a unique piece of music in which a poem was recited by the designer. To this piece, various soloists from the National Opera & Ballet moved in a hypnotic way next to the pattern drawing tables of the studio. After a first round of dance, the first designs followed on the catwalk. After a first batch, a second round of dance followed – this time on the pattern drawing tables. As the intensity of the dance increased, so did the intensity of the designs shown.
Among the designs were recognizable pieces by Sterck. Many items were draped, had cut-outs or exposed parts and interwoven straps. Although not every piece was technically strong, the second half of the show was a highlight with the various suits that used an asymmetrical silhouette. The denim version in particular felt contemporary, but also commercially attractive.
The show ended with a live lecture by the designer that stirred up strong emotions in several visitors. When it comes to the art of performance, Max Zara Sterck knows how to hold attention.
Yousra Razine Mahrah gives a glimpse into Moroccan culture
Friday night starts with a show by Yousra Razine Mahrah, the winner of Lichting 2023. The audience is invited to De Hallen Studios, where an intimate setting has been created. The room is colored red by the lighting and the audience fills the outside of the room. The setting creates warmth in the room, here and there fans are waved.
When Mahrah presents her collection ‘Kabouda – for the culture’, the red blanket changes into white light, so that the spectators cannot miss a single detail of the beautiful garments. The creations show various facets of Moroccan culture. One of the most impressive outfits is a sand-coloured dress, decorated with pearls. Volume is played with on the back by giving the dress a wing-like shape. Another model paraded across the stage with an imitation Moroccan vase on her head. It is clear that Mahrah knows how to captivate the audience, because cheers and applause can be heard throughout her show.
Denzel Veerkamp: Live music, dancing models and a serious message
On the last day of Amsterdam Fashion Week, Denzel Veerkamp shows how his way of upcycling is not only sustainable, but also thought-provoking and entertaining. The Dutch-Surinamese designer was inspired by his recent visit to Suriname for his collection ‘Abrasei’ (Dutch for ‘overseas’). What is striking about the collection is the unique combination of Afro-Surinamese fashion with Western influences, made exclusively from upcycled materials, such as the waterproof and strong fabric of the iconic ‘Ghana must go bag’. With this collection, Veerkamp tells the story of the Afro-Surinamese diaspora, who, despite the challenges caused by the greed of other countries, have always managed to get the best out of every situation.
His debut show, held in Studio Weiman in Amsterdam-Noord, attracted a large audience, despite the overlap with the popular Lichting show. Veerkamp uses fashion as a way to tell stories and with his designs draws attention to political issues that are still relevant today. During the show, this was strongly supported by a Dutch radio recording in which the arrival of Surinamese people in the Netherlands and the idea that the Netherlands would become ‘too full’ were discussed.
Despite the serious message, the show was full of energy and fun. With live music and a finale in which the models danced down the catwalk, the atmosphere was festive. The show was a cheerful acknowledgement of the daily struggle people go through to improve their lives. Veerkamp showed his craftsmanship by transforming each piece of clothing, including items such as fabrics printed with the name ‘Gucci’ and boxer shorts, into colorful, upcycled designs with Afro-Surinamese influences. Afterwards, the evening concluded with music, dance and Surinamese food.
AFW debutant Johnny Blood celebrates one more time in closed nightclub De School
It is forbidden to take pictures and videos for invitees. Johnny Blood is an AFW debutant and has the honor of closing the Amsterdam Fashion Week. He holds his show in an old nightclub where he keeps the evening for him and the audience. What happens in De School, stays in De School.
The audience has understood this message and dares to dress boldly – leather combined with dramatic make-up; everyone is ready for a night out. The show is held in the basement, where white lights dim and intensify the space. Johnny Blood is known for his clubwear, with a focus on vintage redesign and embroidery. The collection ‘Ephemeral’ is inspired by the ‘underground club scene’ and reflects the mix of people in the nightlife.
‘Ephemeral’ has a edgybut elegant appearance. The play of lines, which is given shape to the garments by means of long strands of fabric, stands for bondage. This is supplemented with latex, often in combination with piercings, studs and chains. The models walk at a fast pace, with intense looks, through the audience to the hard tunes of the music. The white creations, which go hand in hand with embroidery and transparent silk, provide breathing space. When the ‘White Horse’ walks through the audience as the last and disappears behind the scenes, there is a huge applause – Johnny Blood let his fans celebrate once more in De School.
This article was created with contributions from FashionUnited editors Caitlyn Terra, Susan Zijp and Sylvana Lijbaart.
Source: fashionunited.nl
