The Camembert war, an endless soap opera. For years, defenders of the AOP “Camembert de Normandie”, a label obtained in 1996, have been tracking down productions that come to tread on their borders without fulfilling the specifications. On January 10, the Nantes Administrative Court of Appeal brought them good news: it confirmed the validity of an inspection by a fraud prevention inspector, which had led to a request for packaging to be brought into compliance. of Lactalis at the end of 2021. What the champion of dairy products has strongly contested since.
The mention “Normandy” no, the factory yes
At the heart of the discord is – among other things – its famous “President” Camembert which has the words “made in Normandy” and “100% Norman milk” on the front of the packaging. This brand does not have the AOP, which notably requires the use of unpasteurized milk and an extended grazing period for the cows. However, with regard to the regulations on protected names, “there cannot be mention, in association with the generic term “camembert”, of the origin “Normandy”, (…) in such a way that this association of terms, by taking up the essentials of the protected name, leads the consumer to have directly in mind (…) the cheese benefiting from the designation of origin.
According to the judges, the manufacturer will be able to mention the place of manufacture provided that it does not come next to the word “camembert”. For example by presenting the factory on the back of the packaging. Conversely, the judges considered that the manufacturer could always affix the words “made in Normandy” on the lids of the “Bridelight” and “Cœurmandie” cheeses: the latter not being Camembert, there is no no risk of confusion for the consumer with the AOP. Members of the Camembert Manufacturers’ Union (SNFC), supporters of the pasteurized version, indicate that they will comply with the decision. But the debate should not stop there: Lactalis has the possibility of appealing to the Council of State.
Origin debates at an impasse
The case reminds us that debates around the origin of agri-food products are too often in the hands of manufacturers. So, how can we explain that the President Camembert proudly displays the Norman origin of its milk while the butter of the same brand sometimes still displays milk originating from the European Union on the back? The industrialist can always argue – rightly – that there is a lack of fat to cover national needs, but packaging is part of a double discourse.
However, these companies know that they are expected on the subject, as evidenced by the demands of farmers and the initiative of the former Minister of Consumer Affairs Olivia Grégoire around Origin’Info. The latter went silent after having rallied a few industrialists and did not spread onto the shelves. While politics is slipping, it is the judges who have put a coin back into the machine.
Source: www.usinenouvelle.com
