While music from Alexander Rogov’s show was heard in the next room, Lyubov Dzhikia told listeners why young designers are now looking for inspiration from the main dandy and fashionista of Russian poetry.
“When we held the Pushkin Ball competition, I did not expect that the whole world would have such interest in the Pushkin theme,” shared the head of the costume design department at the St. Petersburg State University of Industrial Technologies and Design. Then attention was paid to the classics not only in Russia, but also, for example, in Africa, Vietnam and Mongolia.
Photo: Valeria Medvedik
Nowadays, more and more designers are turning to cultural codes, this applies not only to the poet’s era. Nostalgia is one of the main trends in the industry now. It helps bridge the gap between past and present, preserve historical and cultural values and connect with audiences. However, this is not the only reason why Pushkin’s fashion is still relevant today.
A.S. Pushkin stood at the origins of Russian dandyism in the 19th century. He not only gave the world the main dandy of literature, Eugene Onegin, but also adhered to this style himself. “The concept of “dandyism” came to us from England – its founder was George Brummell. He at one time quarreled with the Prince of Wales and went to prison, where he wrote a work that became the code for the modern secular dandy. This influence then spread to the Russian Empire” , – explained Lyubov Dzhikia.
The Pushkin era is relevant due to the cyclical nature of fashion – dandies are still in trend. A new round of popularity, for example, was launched at one time by the TV series Peaky Blinders, which showed English fashion of the 20s in all its glory. In the 19th century, the attributes of a real dandy included a tailcoat, a vest (sometimes even two) and a neckerchief, which was a little in the way, but was extremely important for creating the image. The modern followers of Brummell and Pushkin also preserved the classical style of clothing.
Dandies were only occasionally willing to deviate from minimalism, for example, by inserting diamonds into buttons. In most cases, they preferred casualness and a comfortable suit. It is also important to note that the dandy not only had own style of clothing, but also a unique philosophy.
“Over time, three pillars of the philosophy of dandyism took shape: not to be surprised by anything, to remain dispassionate, to amaze with surprise, to leave as soon as the impression is achieved,” the speaker shared. According to her, this was expressed in everything: how the dandies looked through the lorgnette at the lady, showing with all their appearance that she was indifferent to him, how the men walked along Nevsky Prospect, impressing the fair sex.
Photo: Valeria Medvedik
Alexander Pushkin, being the main dandy of his time, presented several elements of clothing to modern times. For example, a corset, since in Pushkin’s times a “tightened” waist was considered fashionable for a dandy. The poet even proudly wrote to his brother: “The other day I measured my belt with Eupraxia, and our waists were found to be the same. Therefore, of the two, one thing is true: either I have the waist of a 15-year-old girl, or she has the waist of a 25-year-old man.”
In confirmation of this, Dzhikia displayed on a slide a painting by an unknown artist, which depicts the fashionistas of that time, Pushkin and Gogol. “If we look at the shows of recent years, we often see how men wear a corset over a shirt. This is still a very important and fashionable element of clothing,” said the lecturer.
We also owe the fashion for the bolivar hat to Pushkin: “Wearing a wide bolivar, Onegin goes to the boulevard.” This rigid cylinder with a wide brim received its name from the Latin American general Simon Bolivar and subsequently became associated with the Sun of Russian poetry. Then, at the end of the 19th century, this accessory went to freethinking students, who were called nihilists.
Photo: Valeria Medvedik
The author pays special attention to clothing in the novel “Eugene Onegin”. Thus, an important element in the narrative is Tatyana’s crimson beret. “Tatyana becomes a lady of high society and wears a crimson beret – an important accessory of that time, a sign of elegance and high taste,” Lyubov Anatolyevna drew the attention of listeners. Interestingly, such berets have returned to fashion, and on Kuznetsky Most, where Tatyana most likely did her shopping, there is now a concept store of the same name, which contains world brands and unusual designer items.
Pushkin’s fashion is inextricably linked with modernity. Young designers are inspired by her and present their works at international competitions. Among them, for example, are “Pushkin Ball” and “Admiralty Needle”, the artistic director of which is Lyubov Dzhikia.
“After so much time, young designers find Pushkin’s era interesting. I was amazed at how gladly the guys wore suits they had sewn,” Lyubov Anatolyevna shared her impressions of the meeting with the participants of the Pushkin Ball.
Thanks to Pushkin, Russian dandyism took shape. Designers from all over the world are still reinterpreting it in their works. They strive to imbue collections with cultural code, preserving the connection between generations and promoting authenticity and historical experience.
Source: rg.ru
