“Wrinkle fillers are targeted products that are applied locally to breaks and wrinkles, unlike creams which are used on the entire face and act on all the effects of aging. As a result, fillers are overconcentrated in active ingredients, and in particular in relaxing peptides, when creams contain a greater variety of ingredients, in lower concentrations. explains Jonathan Baughman-Marc, doctor of pharmacy.
They apply to rides of the forehead, crow’s feet, the wrinkle between the eyebrows and the contour of the mouth (bitterness fold). They can be used at any age, as soon as a wrinkle appears, “even at the age of 20 in hyper-expressive people who already see fine lines appearing on their forehead or between the eyes”, specifies our expert.
What can we to wait for a wrinkle filler?
“Historically, these products had more of an instant action. They had a blur or silicone texture with an optical smoothing effect. Today, these are products that act both instantly and in the long term,” explique Jonathan Baughman-Marc.
The reference for these so-called old-fashioned products was Clarins’ Lisse minute, which is more of a makeup base than a skincare product. The new fillers are hybrid products, which are more treatments with immediate complementary action than smoothing makeup bases.
The right gesture: apply locally to rides by frowning to force the rides expression, then tapping until the product penetrates. THE filler should be used as the last step of the skincare routine, before makeup.
What active ingredients are used to fill wrinkles?
“The immediate action is linked to molecules which fill very quickly”, explains the specialist.
Older or cheaper formulas used silicones and synthetic polymers for this. They have generally been replaced by tensor films made up of polysaccharides (long-chain sugars), high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which fills the wrinkle from the outside, and/or tapioca starch.
“For long-term plumping action, we mainly find peptides, active ingredients which boost fibroblasts and the formation of collagen and elastin fibers. There are also relaxing molecules which act on the rides of expression and their cause, muscle contraction. »
In addition to low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which plumps from the inside, peptides have become active ingredients of choice because they are ultra powerful. Some act on muscle contraction, others on the synthesis of collagen by the fibroblast.
Notre expert : Jonathan Baughman-Marc, doctor of pharmacy and head of French training at Filorga
Source: www.topsante.com
