PFAS in textiles endangers health and makes recycling difficult – is there a more sustainable alternative?

The textile industry produces materials that are used in everyday life, and the modern world requires mass production of these materials. Although textiles offer many advantages, it is little known that many products contain harmful chemicals that can have serious negative consequences for human health and the environment. This industry is one of the biggest sources of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) pollution in Europe. According to the European Environment Agency (EEA), textiles account for about 35 percent of the total global demand for PFAS.

These substances represent a wide group of synthetic chemicals, known for their durability – they are resistant to water, grease and heat. It is estimated that there are more than 10,000 different PFAS compounds. However, precisely because of their resistance, they become extremely harmful to the environment. PFAS are known as “eternal pollutants”, because they do not degrade naturally and can persist for decades in nature, as well as in the human body.

Although they are known to be harmful, most textiles in Europe are imported from Asian countries where the chemical regulations are less stringent, meaning that there is very little information about the PFAS content of the imported textiles.

PFAS are spread in nature through water, air and soil, and their excessive concentration can cause a variety of health problems, from fertility problems to an increased risk of cancer. As they can reach the human body, they enter the organisms of animals more easily and can accumulate in plants, spreading further through the food chain. Long-term exposure can cause disruption of entire ecosystems.

Previously, it was thought that there were no good enough alternatives to PFAS, however, research has shown that there are actually safer ones for the environment, such as biodegradable or less harmful synthetic materials. For example, waterproof materials made from natural fibers enriched with wax or resin.

Photo-illustration: Unsplash (Keagan Henman)

The problem with textiles containing PFAS is reflected in the difficult possibility of recycling. At the end of a textile’s life, there is generally no information on whether it contains PFAS and, if so, in what quantity. Testing textiles for these chemical substances is an expensive and demanding process. Textiles containing these substances are difficult to recycle due to their resistance to decomposition, and if they are recycled, the substance is spread through recycling streams. Also, the process of removing PFAS from the rest of textiles that can be recycled is financially unprofitable. Another alternative can be the use of biopolymers, which are increasingly popular in the world and are significantly easier to recycle and decompose.

Technically feasible alternatives exist for various textile categories such as home textiles, sportswear and footwear. However, for some categories, such as protective equipment for firefighters or equipment in medicine that protects against exposure to various liquids, there is still no sufficient substitute for PFAS.

The European Union should continue with the introduction of new technologies and stricter regulations, such as digital passports for products, as well as with the improvement of sorting methods. All of this will help to monitor PFAS throughout the entire life cycle of the product.

Katarina Vuinac

Source: energetskiportal.rs