Amadeus Thüner is one of the best-known sneaker experts in Germany, with almost 20 years of experience in the industry. In an interview with FashionUnited, he looks ahead to the coming trends, shares his dream collaboration and shows that “sneakerheads” don’t just have sports shoes in their closet.
As founder of Oh! Sneaker Media – a platform with podcast for sneakers, streetwear and lifestyle – Thüner regularly takes a look at the latest trends, models and developments in the industry. In addition, the self-proclaimed ‘Subculture Connoisseur’, as it says on his business card, supports brands in the field of cultural marketing with the consultancy firm ‘Studio Highfivesandstagedives’.
The cold season has arrived and with it the weather is changing. Which sneaker is your current favorite for this period?
“Everything made of full leather, because it is easier to clean. Then it doesn’t matter if it gets a little dirty or wet. Moreover, you can prepare it well, impregnate it, etc. If the puddles are a bit deeper, a high – definitely a good idea.”
“A proven choice in recent years is always a ‘Jordan 1’ or ‘Nike Dunk High’. But actually all other brands have high-tops in their portfolio. Even New Balance, which is normally more in the running sector have a few.”
And regardless of the weather?
“The great thing is that we currently have models from all brands with which you can do wonderful things. Personally, I have been a big ‘Nike SB Dunk’ fan for decades. A lot is still happening in the skateboarding department. Especially after the Olympics. There were many models intended for Paris. I am also enthusiastic about the entire 990 series from New Balance, whether it is 991, 992… I still wear “Jordans” even though that is for many people a little has become boring, you can’t go wrong with a classic.”
Is there a sneaker that bores you?
“On the one hand, I have seen the Adidas Samba a lot in my youth and of course recently too. The Adidas Gazelle, the Handball Spezial and all the corduroy silhouettes from Adidas do not make the shoe bad, but that is something I see enough of now. I’m also looking forward to seeing something different again.”
What would that be at Adidas?
Adidas clearly has a large and broad heritage in all kinds of sports. So there’s definitely something lurking in the archive that would be cool to see again. It’s good that they had this run with the corduroy silhouettes, but I’ve just seen enough of them.
Adidas could play up everything around the ZX again. It would be nice if this were picked up more strongly again. To be honest, I was also a bit surprised that they didn’t do that during the European Football Championship – the focus was more on the Samba. Furthermore, Adidas has a lot of nice things. Now they’re bringing back a piece of basketball heritage.
What trends are you seeing in the sneaker world right now?
“The trend is moving towards the anti-trend, and that’s actually pretty cool. That’s not to say that certain models in collaborations can’t have a very short-term momentum and hype, but we don’t have to just Swoosh, Adidas Three Stripes or just New Balance to carry.”
“Anything is possible and we can wear anything. Every brand does more or less its best. You will find models, collaborations and exciting colorways. Whether you walk around with the big Nike, Adidas, Puma, New Balance, or even Skechers, or you choose something from Hookah, Salomon, Diadora, Saucony or other brands – anything is possible. That plays into the hands of individualism. And that is actually what has always characterized sneaker culture: wearing something that not everyone wears.”
There has been a shift in the streetwear scene where shoes beyond sneakers have become more popular. How do you assess this development?
“Especially in Germany, there always has to be some kind of counter-movement. It has a negative connotation, which I think is a shame. You can have a sneaker, loafer or a cool boot in your closet, whatever you feel like, and therefore you don’t have to not necessarily demarcated from something.”
“I have Clarks Wallabees and also boots, for when it really starts to snow. Does that make me less of a sneakerhead or is someone who wears loafers automatically a sneakerhead when he buys a sneaker?”
Is sneaker saturation the reason?
“Of course, the sneaker was ubiquitous for a long time, so people chose to wear something different for various reasons. Timberland was very popular again last winter with their boots. They always were in the past.”
“For the new generation that is now starting to fashion, it is fresh and new. We have already seen that and that is okay too. It shows what kind of brands Timberland or Clarks are, which can inspire people again and again.”
How do the generations differ?
They are now combined differently. The way you currently wear loafers is different from how it was intended. The original casual shoe found favor with a hip-hop-influenced audience back in the ’90s, making it more likely to find its way into the streetwear sector today. Just like the sports shoe was actually for the gym floor and is now worn on the street.
A degree of summery “Saint Tropez” chic has certainly contributed to the fact that it does not always have to be the linen trousers that are worn with the Gucci loafer.
Which sneaker brands are your secret tip?
“There are brands that actually still have a considerable size, but are not that well known because of their own heritage. Mizuno is huge in Asia. There almost everyone wears it and it is represented in sports such as volleyball and table tennis. In the Netherlands they are still Not that well known. But I’m definitely a fan.”
“Saucony is now taking steps that New Balance made a few years ago. They are focusing on selected partners with a niche following, instead of the largest collaboration partners. That works in a very organic way.”
Vans is not a small brand either, but by striving to go “back to the roots” they have done themselves a big favor. Just nothing I would necessarily wear in the fall or winter.
Furthermore, it is very exciting to see what happens at Merrell, a brand that is not yet very big. Brands such as Flowers for Society, which are also not part of the mainstream, have also built up a good community. They are pushing and doing a lot at the moment. A great asset!
Which sneaker collab blew you away this year?
“Patta and Nike are always a safe bet. Especially that they are bringing the shoe back after 15 years for the 20th anniversary. It is nothing new, but many people at the time could not get the model, were not yet active and could not experience now.”
“I also like what A Ma Maniére has done with Nike’s Jordan brand, as well as the collaboration with Aimé Leon Dore (ALD). Many people find it boring because it is also what they have done before, but “never change a winning team.” Nike SB has also done many exciting things, such as the model in honor of the legendary graffiti artist Futura 2000.”
What collaboration do you dream of?
“Palace and Nike SB. However, the rumor is that as long as Nike works with Supreme, Palace won’t. So we’ll probably have to wait a while.”
Are collaborations even anything special anymore?
“The frequency has increased and we see a lot of collaborations, but also because they work. I always say: one and one is three, then it is a good collaboration. What I mean by that is, if you bring the two respective target groups together, something can create news and if that’s something creative that happens at eye level, then that’s great.”
“That’s where the wheat separates from the chaff. If there are only two logos stuck together, it’s not exciting. Only storytelling can charge a product with emotions and bind someone to the product or the brand in question.”
Which story convinced you emotionally?
“James Whitner, the man behind A Ma Maniére, has provided a good story and insights into ‘Black Culture’, including ‘Black Female Culture’. I am neither a ‘Person of Color’ nor a woman, but discover through the story he tells me. He focuses on Chicago. ‘Black Culture’ may look very different elsewhere, but it is very exciting to learn more about it and discover such a story it’s about having to show each other things.”
Where do you go hunting for new models?
“The Netherlands in particular has many very good shops, even in Europe we don’t have to hide internationally. I have love for everyone.”
What role do sustainable sneaker brands play?
“I have the impression that the corona period has changed the focus again. It has not replaced sustainability, but there were also other problems. That should not distract from the fact that sustainability is a very important factor. We, in this fashion industry, – whether it’s sneakers or other segments – are simply the most unsustainable consumers ever. A lot needs to be done there across fashion, from the brand to the consumer.”
“In the field of sneakers, there have of course also been many attempts and moments where this has been successful or at least a start. However, I could not name a brand that I was so convinced of and believe that this would be interesting again in the future. A lot of it is also just project-based and that’s good, but outside of that, for me, at least, nothing that should happen has happened yet.”
Some brands place the theme completely centrally
“Of course there are brands that focus very much on this sustainability aspect, but I personally miss the connection with that. In addition, the lack of sustainability also plays a role. The materials used usually do not make it possible for the shoe to function for a certain period of time. Of course, a Nike shoe also has problems after 20 years, for example with glue and other materials. Yet for me there is currently no good alternative and no brand that is ‘top-notch’.”
This article was translated by Susan Zijp using an AI tool called Gemini 1.5. .
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Source: fashionunited.nl
