There are many reasons why we have a bad night. When we wake up, the result is there: wrinkled features and a dull complexion due to dehydration, dark circles and bags under the eyes due to poor circulation, blemishes or redness, signs of internal inflammation…
“Human gene expression has a 24-hour circadian pattern modeled on the Earth’s cycle around the sun, alternating between day and night phases. Different physiological and behavioral rhythms are engaged (metabolism, sleepbody temperature, blood pressure, but also endocrine, immune, cardiovascular and renal functions)”, recalls Dr. Sapène, pulmonologist, specialist in respiratory diseases.
Poor sleep and rapid aging: a cause and effect relationship
Some hormones, such as melatonin or growth hormone (somatropin), are only secreted during the sleep deep. Therefore, yes the sleep is bad, hormonal balances are also bad.
The doctor sees this every day in his office: “The less effective patients sleep, the more scarred they are.” This is explained by the inability of genes – and in particular clock genes – to manage the synchronization of the different functions of the skin after a bad night. If their health is more of a concern to him, Dr. Sapène intends “patients, especially young women, who also want to take action to preserve their beauty (skin toned, active and healthy appendages, slim figure…).
Effects that are visible from the first “bad” night
“The effects of a lack of sleep are visible from the first nightmarish night, with less sebum, more insensible water loss and slowed blood circulation. After about a week, the loss of elasticity of the skin is clearly decreasing. Furthermore, we quickly realize that, fragmented or insufficient, the sleep generates cascading reactions that directly impact aging,” says Dr. Nadine Pernodet, head of R&D at Estée Lauder.
More than 10 years ago, the brand partnered with Case Western Reserve University (United States) in a study on the impact of a sleep poor quality on the skin. “But way ahead of her time, Mrs. Lauder launched the industry’s first night repair serum in 1982, developing the concept of ‘night care’ in the process,” adds Dr. Pernodet.
It is also known that the barrier function of the skin is approximately 25% less effective against aggressions (pollution, UV, microbes and viruses, irritating care, etc.) and that highly inflammatory glycation phenomena were generated. However, oxidative stress acts on skin aging through the destruction of collagen and the elastin network. A breeding ground for dehydration, the formation of redness or irritation (psoriasis or eczema) and the installation of signs of aging (fine lines and wrinkles, spots, sagging skin).
No beauty product can replace a quality night’s sleep.
Cosmetologists are therefore interested in how to improve nocturnal physiological processes and counteract the effects of poor sleep. We operate at the rhythm of chronobiology, the beauty has every interest in getting inspired to perform. The key is treatments – creams, serums, masks – and technobeauty devices that boost or repair the failures of the skin system. In short: “Protect from cellular oxidation during the day and work towards a cleansing “reset” of organic waste and restore proteins and lipids at night, to boost the production of collagen and elastin”, summarizes Dr. Pernodet.
But “let it be said: no product of beautyhowever expensive and luxurious it may be, cannot replace the essential action of a sleep of quality », says Dr. Sapène. Does this mean that we should throw our creams into oblivion? Not necessarily! For the doctor, the urgent thing is to “understand why we sleep badly and act accordingly.”
“Investing in your well-being should be a priority, especially when you don’t have an unlimited budget,” he argues. Despite everything, and in addition, cosmetics have good assets. Boosting hydration and cell renewal seems appropriate when we know that sleeping badly generates dehydration and accumulation of dead cells on the surface of the skin. Today, we know that certain active ingredients, such as carnosine or melatonin, play a real role in regenerating cosmetics. The second, in addition to its action on falling asleep when ingested, also acts on the stimulation of longevity proteins (sirtuins, ubiquinones, klotho, etc.) when it is directly synthesized by the skin.
Nos experts :
- Dr Marc Sapène, pulmonologist and head of the Pole sleep Bel Air, in Bordeaux
- Dr. Nadine Pernodet, Senior Vice President, Bioscience, Advanced Pioneering Technology and Research & Development at Estée Lauder
Source: www.topsante.com
